For a long time I had wanted to visit Kolkata, a city about which I have read a lot, heard and thought a lot. From the writings of Rabindranath Tagore, Bibhuti Bhushan, Bankim Chandra Chatterjee, Sarat Chandra, from the films of Satyajit Ray, Shyam Benegal, Ritwik Ghatak, Mrinal Sen, Aparna Sen i had a few notions in my head. I have been an ardent admirer of the intellectual spirit of this city. Bengal; the cradle of Indian renaissance, the land of pioneering reform, the place from where the flames of freedom fanned across India, the land of intellectuals, reformers and patriots, I wanted to be here to imbibe the spirit and the ethos of this city. A day is not exactly enough to soak in the uniqueness of a city but I cannot be blamed for not trying.
I made the journey by train, crossing the outer borders of AP on the eastern side for the first time. The vast expanse of the Chilka Lake resembled a mighty sea. All over in Odisha I could see copious amount of water in the rivers. The Mahanadi, the Brahmani, the Rushikulya were flowing full probably swelled by heavy monsoon rain. In fact dark clouds followed us from Odisha to Kolkata and it rained during the 2 days of our stay. A long train journey leaves an imprint of the passage of time. As is my wont, I sat up watching the Geography, the flora and fauna of the passing scene. The train chugged us into Howrah terminus at 1.30 am. At 1.30 am Howrah terminus was buzzing with activity. For a station that boasts of 25 platforms, a little more could have been done to address issues of congestion and cleanliness.
Outside as we taxied across the Howrah Bridge I could sense Kolkata hitting me on the face. The squalor and the dirt are appalling. Yet there are parts of the city which are clean and well maintained. Late in the night we reached the official guest house of the RRLF foundation. After the business end of the trip was completed in the first half, I visited the National Library. Spread over 33 acres with a collection of 44 lakh items, the National Library has a vibrant dynamic and demonstrates amply why a Library is called a growing organism. The collection of the Imperial Library rechristened as the National Library has many ancient books, papers, periodicals and manuscripts of immense historical and antique value. (This library has the Gazettes of the House of Lords dating back to 1800)
The next day we made an early morning visit to Dakshineshwar to worship Goddess Durga. This is the place where Gadadhar the child became Rama Krishna Paramahamsa, the saint. The river Hooghly flowing under the sister Nivedita setu, the Rani Rashomami estate with its gardens and trees where Rama Krishna went into deep meditation many a time or sang and danced in ecstasy in realization of the presence of the divine Goddess are mute witnesses to the fountain of love and piety spread by this ‘uneducated’ mystic. Ramakrishna’s association with Naren, later Swami Vivekananda, the deep bond of philosophical reflection that entwined the two like-minded souls is breathed by all things around in Dakshineswar. Ramakrishna’s belief in the realization of God was all about intensity. Chronicles of his tryst with worship tell us that he would weep in front of the Goddess, complaining as to why she did not shower her blessings upon him.
A visit to the National museum gave me glimpses into the sculptures and architecture of ancient India; the different schools of art and sculpture that flourished right from Gandhara, Nalanda, Taxsila, Pallava, Indo Grecian etc. In the coins section we could see coins which date as far back as Alexander, depicting his battle with Porus. In the Egyptian section we could see a mummy from the Pyramids. Victoria Memorial is a splendid example of the largesse of the British; the scale and magnificence at which they visualized a befitting tribute to her royal Highness, all at the expense of their subjects. Yet it is a glorious structure which houses curious artefacts and antique pieces from the days of the British Raj. In a sort of ironical justice the first floor of the memorial has been converted into a museum about the beginning of the militant era in the Indian freedom movement. The monument is built to create a sense of awe, with the dome covered by intricate design and relief. The tall edifice built on a high foundation seems to generate a cowering feeling.
The abundance of trees in Kolkata is something to be celebrated. At least in Salt Lake, Newtown, Eco Park, Park Street, places where I went there were hundreds of trees. Statues of Bengali intellectuals, thinkers, patriots adorn several circles and give us a feeling of being immersed in History. From the Howrah Terminus to the streets and by lanes, I tried to recollect those images of Kolkata that have left an imprint on my mind, especially from the montage of Ray’s films to be seen in Apur Sansar, Mahanagar, Aranyer Din Ratri, Pratidwandi, Janaranya and Seema Badda.
One feels the intellectual vibes, more so if one is familiar with Bengali Literature and Cinema. I missed an important factor that connects one with the people and their culture. I could not taste authentic Bengali cuisine, not even their dessert Rosogolla mainly due to lack of time. As I bid adieu to Kolkata I felt that Kolkata was trying to preserve its intellectuality and vigor but also venturing into 21st century avenues like IT, Technology, Capital investment, consultancy, BPO etc. Whether it is at the cross roads or has already advanced further, only time will tell us.