It is welcome to be having a feeling of déjà vu now and then. After my childhood of 2 years in Cochin some 50 years ago, I could visit Kerala again. It is Sun and rain which alternate in nearly symmetrical patterns that make me enthusiastic. Far from a land that knows only one season, Summer; I’m in Kerala at that time of the year when the monsoon is active. My train from Thrissur to Guruvayoor passes through sheets of copious rain. Large plots of rice fields with coconut and banana orchards glisten as the rain blows and stops intermittently. Small houses with terracotta tiles and slanting roofs, surrounded by verdant greenery, jack fruit and plantain trees make me envious of their residents.
In spite of the large scale urbanization, there are trees holding ground in Kerala. The colors of green; dark or light, rather than drab yellow and ash mortar buildings is a sight pleasing to the eye. We worshipped the deity at Guruvayoor, Vadukkunathan and Irinjalakkuda temples. The temple architecture is distinct with murals and paintings donning the temple walls. The dress code for gentlemen is very strict and one is permitted only with a dhoti. The shirt is to be removed. The mix of ancience and tradition together with mythological folklore associated with the origin of the temples, adds arcaneness to the narrative. I tried to understand the culinary traditions of Kerala but the variety of snacks and sweets is so diverse that I couldn’t do justice in a short two day trip. Yet I could get a bite of Palampozhi, Idiyappam,Neiyyappam and Unniyappam. The presence of coconut in the curries is ubiquitous. The promptness, courtesy and propriety of the auto and car drivers comes as a pleasant surprise.
We visited the Dolours Basilica Cathedral at Thrissur which is among the tallest cathedrals in Asia. Taking an elevator, we went to the top floor of the Basilica to see the Bible tower. Here there is a collection of Bibles in various languages dating from 1864. Also there are amazing 360 degree views of Thrissur city from here. Paintings, carvings, engravings depicting different scenes from the life of Christ adorn the walls. The winding stair case and the Bible tower reminded me of the Aedificium in “The name of the Rose.” The church interiors are equally regal and magnificent. We sat on the pews for a few minutes, offering a prayer. Our last stop was the Thrissur museum which has not many interesting artifacts but mostly stuffed animals and weapons. I looked at Kerala government employees guarding the artifacts. A gigantic elephant skeleton of Chenganallor Renganathan is the centre piece of attraction. This benign creature which was 11 feet tall was the top most elephant for all temple rituals in Thrissur in the 1920 s.
Looking at it and the visitors who troop in day in and day out I had several fleeting glimpses of time past and present. We cling to the past, celebrating the glory that was. Meanwhile my present sojourn in Kerala was already a thing of yesterday as we boarded our train to take us back.