The airport is a big surprise. It is not the ram shackled, worn-out airport in which I landed 10 years ago. Then Hyderabad had no direct flight to Patna. I had to change flights in New Delhi. Now the flying experience is smooth and coordinated. The weather is another aberration. Icy winds engulf me in coldness and chill outside the airport. Like in most big cities of India, the squalor and the low standards of hygiene can turn you away. However the mark of development is clear and evident. Marine drive on the Ganga, Atal path, J.P. Marg, Gangasetu and huge structures combining public utility with the marvel of technology welcomed me.
Employment and Development; Rozgaar and Vikas seem to be the new outreaches of Bihar. I went to the field and visited the Jivika blocks in Jehanabad district. Jivika is an initiative of the Rural Development, Livelihoods department of Bihar, where SHG women who are called Didis are leading a quiet transformation towards empowerment, dignity and self-reliance. Women are being provided opportunities in factory style manufacture of dress (tailoring), beauty and wellness training, Krishi Vikas advice to farmers on crops, patterns and other farm practices, as Vidya Didis who run libraries in rural areas to provide access to books, career planning and guidance, self study facility for various competitive exams and other enterprising initiatives.
The urban-rural divide is evident. Inspite of the sparkling strides that Patna seems to be taking, rural Bihar appeared to be in a time-warp. I visited Bodh Gaya and worshipped the Buddha in Dhyana Kendra in Bhumisparsha pose. Peepal trees adorn the compound and remind us of the great attachment between Buddhism, Nature, openness and trees. Just as the tree divines its roots deep into the Earth the Buddhist must stay rooted to the ideals of Buddhism.
Under this sacred tree Gautama attained enlightenment and became the Buddha. The tranquil yet eloquent power of the Buddha from the diamond throne captivates the pilgrim. I saw the MahaBodhi tree, a descendent of the original tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The Peepal tree has spread its branches wide, evoking a feeling of magnificence tended by simplicity. The 80 feet statue of the Buddha looks imposing. I worshipped at the Vishnupada temple Gaya, offering obeisance to departed parents and relatives. Lord Vishnu is said to have slayed the demon Gayasura at this place. The squalor and the mercenary priests make me wish to get away from the place as quickly as possible. The Phalguni River is a meek reminder of the glory that it was once, having been polluted and poached now like most rivers of India. In the twilight we reached Patna and covered the long drive across the Ganga called Patna’s Marine drive.
The next day I visited the two main attractions of Patna; The Bihar museum and the Patna museum. Both museums are state of the art and very well maintained. They are working examples of how museums should be built and maintained. Architecture wise also they are modern, meticulous and mind-blowing, the Bihar museum especially. We looked at the history of Bihar from the millennia and I could observe the predominant influence of Buddhism on this ancient land.
Golghar a granary built by the British in the 18th century to protect people from famines, the avowed purpose being storage of grain is another grand and mammoth structure. Since climbing the stairs is not allowed I couldn’t have the pleasure of scenic sights of the city from the top of Golghar which Wiki promised. Munching of tobacco Khaini or Gutka seems to be highly prevalent especially among the poor and working classes. Bihar is a dry state but this draconian vice of munching tobacco will certainly have its effect on the health and the economy of the people.
That Bihar is a BIMARU backward state was one of the many myths that got busted during this tour. Along with rapid strides in development, people seem to have caught on to the band wagon of modernization, getting along with life. However more needs to be done to make Patna more presentable, cleaner and livable.